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Shoraian (Syourian) Tofu Restaurant (Kyoto)

January 6, 2014 by Jennifer Che 41 Comments

_DSC4032This is the sixth post in the Tokyo – Kyoto – Osaka series. Other posts in this series include the intro post: Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, Matsugen (soba), Sushi Iwa, Ramen Honda (Tokyo Ramen Street), Ryugin, and Omen.


When in Kyoto, you have to try the tofu.

Tofu is one of Kyoto’s specialties, perfected by Buddhist vegetarian monks over the centuries. The tofu artisans in Kyoto are passionate and extremely serious about their craft.They use century old techniques to create perfect blocks of fresh, silky, and surprisingly flavorful tofu that’s nothing like the bland bricks found in the industrial mass-produced variety.
_DSC4027
Kyoto’s tofu is widely regarded as the best in Japan, and Shoraian’s is considered the best. It was in the quest for this magical, ethereal tofu that I took my friends on a forty-five minute walk, including a hike through a mountain path and up numerous stone steps, in order to reach this special place.
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Shoraian is not your typical Japanese restaurant.

It’s located in Arashiyama, a popular recreational area in Western Kyoto well known for its beautiful fall foliage, spring cherry blossoms, and stunning bamboo forests.

Not only is it on the western edge of Kyoto, you also can’t get to the restaurant by car. Or by any wheeled vehicle, in fact. Shouraian is perched on the edge of a mountain overlooking the beautiful Oi River. You must take a short hike along a dirt path before climbing several flights of stone steps to reach this little oasis tucked away in the trees.

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If you’re already at the bamboo forest, there are many ways to get to the restaurant. The most direct way involves hiking through various winding trails towards the restaurant. We had read enough warnings from other travelers saying they got lost this way, so we chose not to risk it.
_X1C6541
Instead, we walked along the river (very straightforward!) until the paved path ended. We continued following a dirt path until we reached a dead end where we saw a sign leading up to the restaurant (see Bryan pointing above). At this point, there are many signs which lead you towards the entrance.
ShoraianPath
Go up a series of steps, and then another. After a few more steps, hang a left into this gravel pathway. It’s useful to know the Japanese characters for the restaurant, since none of the signs are written in English. It took us about 45 minutes to walk from the bamboo forest to the restaurant because we took the longer, more circuitous but easier route.
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Upon entering, we immediate noticed a lot of hanging brushstroke art. The owner of the restaurant is also an artist, and really enjoys Japanese calligraphy.

And then they showed us our table.
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I almost gasped.

Our own private tatami room? I later found out that every table has a view of the scenic river. It’s serene, peaceful, and very relaxing.

We had an option of three different types of tasting menus. The Shoyo is the least expensive, costing 3800 JPY (about $38 USD), and includes an appetizer, a smaller assorted specialties plate, “yudofu” (tofu hot pot), agedashi tofu, rice and pickles, and dessert.

The Shorai costs 4600 JPY (about $46 USD), and includes everything from the Shoyo plus an additional special item and a “Kyo-ryori seasonal selection”.

The Shofu costs 5800 JPY (about $58 USD), and includes everything from the Shorai plus toyuba tempura, tofu gratin with namafu, and a mini-steak of wagyu beef. Additionally, it includes unlimited refills for the yudofu.

Since we had a party of four, we though it would be fun to order all three sets just to see exactly how they differed.
_DSC4004
I loved our appetizer, a delicate, creamy tofu “burrata”. It was soft, silky, and custard-like, so light and delicate it could be easily eaten with a spoon. This came with all three set menus.
_DSC4008
The next course was the “Assorted Specialties Plate“, and included several artfully presented tiny bites. Pictured above is the platter from the 3800 JPY Shoyo menu: a boiled Japanese sweet potato slice, boiled shrimp, a leaf-shaped wheat gluten (namafu), Japanese mountain yam (yamaimo) topped with white miso, fresh fig slice topped with prosciutto, kabocha squash, boiled fresh soy beans (edamame), and a cake made from a mixture of wheat gluten and tofu.
_DSC4011
The same “Assorted Specialties Plate” from the mid-priced Shorai and higher priced Shofu menus included many of the same pieces served in the Shoyo menu, but also added other special items, such as a black sesame mochi skewer topped with white miso, a piece of cooked salmon, another piece of fish, a small vegetable salad tossed in a sesame paste dressing, and a grilled Shisito pepper.

The sheer variety of food so artfully presented on the plate was impressive. Though some items (like the salmon, shrimp, and edamame) were relatively unexciting, other items (like the wheat guten, tofu, or mochi-based little bites) were unusual and fun to try. I think the wheat-gluten tofu block was one of my favorites.
_DSC4017
The next course, called Sunrise, was the “Kyo-ryori Seasonal Selection”, which basically translates to Kyoto Cuisine Seasonal Selection. It was served alongside a postcard with the poem which inspired the dish. The poem, written in calligraphy by the restaurant’s owner, is about the sun, and the dish represents the sun with its various components.
ShoraianEgg
This was one of my favorite dishes. I loved the dense, gelatinous orange egg yolk combined with the intense red pepper sauce. I’m not sure what they did to the egg yolk, but the resulting texture was really unique. It was dense and thick, almost jamlike in texture but savory in flavor. It sort of reminded me of the gooey orange-yolked eggs you find in Japanese ramen. The red components were topped with a white foam and tiny little gingko shaped chips.
_DSC4022

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also loved the next course, Toyuba Tempura, which is only available as part of the most expensive Shofu tasting (5800 JPY). Yuba is made by harvesting the thin film that forms at the top of a a boiling pot of soy milk. These skins are collected and dried to form yuba, which can then be deep fried into tempura. The toyuba tempura was served alongside a couple pieces of vegetable tempura.

These were delicate and crispy. We dipped them into a tiny bowl filled with matcha powder and salt.

_DSC4023
The next dish, Tofu Gratin with Namafu, is also only available as part of the most expensive Shofu tasting (5800 JPY). It’s unlike anything Japanese I’d ever had before. Essentially, it’s a ramekin filled with a cheese and soy cream custard filled with eggplant and a sesame mochi namafu (wheat gluten). I was surprised but the cheesy, soy cream flavor combination worked. It was very rich and creamy, but not too salty, which I liked. The wheat gluten inside added a nice, chewy texture.
ShoraianTofuPot
And then it was time for what they call “Yudofu“, or tofu hot pot. It’s actually a really simple dish. I believe the simple preparation allows you to actually taste the inherent flavors of the tofu. You taste the fresh, soy flavors.

Our server came by to light our individual tofu pots.
_DSC4032
Once the tofu blocks were hot, we just ate them with a small amount of soy sauce and thinly sliced scallions. The tofu was excellent. It was luxuriously silken soft and light. The Shofu tasting includes unlimited refills of this delicious tofu.

_DSC4034

But most definitely save room, because the next course, also only part of the Shofu tasting, is the Mini Steak of Wagyu Beef. The breed of the Wagyu beef we had was Hida beef, which comes from black haired Japanese cattle raised in the Gifu prefecture for at least 14 months. All Hida beef needs to be certified with a yield score of grade A or B and firmness levels 3, 4, or 5 (see my brief aside about Japanese beef grading in my Le Cirque post for more details).

This beef was simply grilled to a perfect medium rare and served over grilled eggplant and topped with spring onions. It was beautiful marbled, juicy and rich. In short it was excellent.
_DSC4036
The Agedashi Tofu, deep fried tofu served in a dashi-based brothi, is part of all three tasting menus. I thought this was pretty good, though it did not necessarily blow me away. I may even dare say I’ve enjoyed this specific dish more in other restaurants. It was still perfectly enjoyable, though, and since I love this dish in general, I still happily ate it up.
ShoraianPickles
Finally, the meal ended with Rice + Pickles, which is a part of every tasting menu. We also all received a small bowl full of tiny fish tossed in Sichuan peppercorn powder.
_DSC4044
For dessert, we had a phenomenal Tofu Ice Cream topped with a tiny sheet of cinnamon flavored mochi. Wow. I absolutely loved this course too, and I longed for more than just a tiny scoop (which is all we got). I loved the strong soy flavor. It reminded me of the perfect, intensely flavored soy milk made into an ice cream.
Shoraian1
All in all, it was a very excellent meal. I liked how it was largely vegetarian, but still incorporated just enough meat to make it very filling. After trying all three, I would recommend the Shofu, which comes with the most interesting variety of tofu prepared in many, many ways. I was afraid of ordering the Shofu mostly because I was afraid it would be too much food. In reality, I think it’s probably OK.

A sad aside, but Bryan actually got sick during out trip and had a really bad stomachache during this meal, so he ended up not eating at all. However, we felt bad taking up a seat, so we ordered four tasting menus (Two Shofus, one Shorai, and one Shoyo). Even though Bryan didn’t eat, the three of us managed to almost finish all of the food. Yes, we were stuffed, but that also tells me that their normal portion size may be something I could actually handle.

I highly recommend this restaurant. I think it’s the best bang for buck when it comes to everything. Where else can you get such a beautiful and authentic Japanese “kaiseki” experience with multiple, artfully decorated courses, a private tatami room, gorgeous views of the river, and really excellent food all for between $38-$58 a person? Keep in mind that really high-end kaiseki experiences usually run in the $100-$300 range. Compared to that, this is a steal.
_DSC4040

Other Tips
You can make reservations and you should. There are a limited number of tatami rooms and they book up reasonably quickly. I think I booked mine a little less than a month before arriving in Kyoto.

I’ve mentioned this earlier in the post, but please note that you do need to sort of hike to this location. It’s not particularly difficult (equivalent to a few flights of stairs), but it’s definitely not wheelchair friendly or anything like that. If you take a cab close to the entrance, you probably don’t need to walk more than 5-10 minutes to get to the restaurant. We walked 45 minutes because we had been visiting the bamboo forests earlier in the day.

At least one person should order the Shofu. Except for the silken tofu appetizer and the actual Yudofu (hot pot), I found most of the courses from the Shoyo to be more ordinary. My favorite, more interesting dishes came from the Shofu, such as the Toyuba tempura, the “Sunrise” egg dish, and the Wagyu beef. I think it’s worth the extra $20 USD for at least one person at the table to get the Shofu.
_D4C2590
Here are the menus written out for your reference.

Enjoy!

Shoyo [3800]
Appetizer
Assorted specialties plate
Yudofu
Agedashi tofu
Rice and pickles
Dessert

Shorai [4600]
Appetizer
Assorted specialties plate
Special Item
Kyo-ryori seasonal selection
Yudofu
Agedashi tofu
Rice and pickles
Dessert

Shofu [5800]
Appetizer
Assorted specialties plate
Special Item
Kyo-ryori seasonal selection
Toyuba tempura
Tofu gratin with namafu
Mini-steak of wagyu beef
Yudofu (Refills available)
Agedashi tofu
Rice and pickles
Dessert

©2009-2014 Tiny Urban Kitchen
All Rights Reserved

Filed Under: Japan, Kyoto, Restaurant, World Travel Tagged With: Japanese, Vegetarian

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Comments

  1. Chelsea says

    January 6, 2014 at 11:15 pm

    Wow, all of the courses look amazing! This was really interesting, especially because of the variety and quality of the tofu, unlike the bland type that is usually found in the US.

    Reply
  2. Ravzie says

    January 7, 2014 at 9:47 pm

    I would like more energy efficient, updated appliances. Thanks.

    Reply
  3. Becca says

    January 8, 2014 at 3:00 pm

    I would love appliances that knew to shut off before the food burned. I burn way too much toast!

    Reply
  4. maria cantu says

    January 8, 2014 at 3:59 pm

    A double oven would be nice.
    MCantu1019 at aol dot com

    Reply
  5. Mel says

    January 8, 2014 at 10:30 pm

    I just want a giant kitchen with a double oven!

    Reply
  6. Mel says

    January 8, 2014 at 10:32 pm

    tweeted https://twitter.com/MelindaJoy926/status/421106929251790848

    Reply
  7. sean says

    January 8, 2014 at 10:35 pm

    self cleaning fridge/freezer

    Reply
  8. GeeEmm says

    January 9, 2014 at 4:21 am

    Tweet, tweet! https://twitter.com/GeeEmm/status/421194798163193856

    Reply
  9. chambanachik says

    January 9, 2014 at 12:17 pm

    I would love a coffeemaker that could sense when I woke and brew at that exact moment!

    chambanachik(at)gmail(dot)com

    Reply
  10. rachel says

    January 9, 2014 at 12:19 pm

    I’d love a stove that could boil water in less than a minute.

    Reply
  11. Danti Chen says

    January 9, 2014 at 12:26 pm

    I’d love a fridge with segmented temperature control for better/easier preservation, and maybe even double as a wine chiller!

    Reply
  12. Lyndsey says

    January 9, 2014 at 1:05 pm

    I’d like my fridge and pantry to “scan” my food as I put it in and take it out. Then remind me when I’m out of something (it doesn’t go back in) or when something is about to spoil via text message or email. It could also prepare shopping lists that include needed items.

    Reply
  13. Tarah says

    January 9, 2014 at 4:24 pm

    I’d love a slow cooker that worked with me. I am a full time, working mom, so a slow cooker is a great tool. But even the ones with the timers, can leave my food a bit dried out by the time I get home. I’d love one that would start cooking with enough time to be done by the time I get home, not just on warm, like the one I currently have.

    Reply
  14. Adriane says

    January 9, 2014 at 8:57 pm

    I’d love a washer/dryer in a single appliance – put the clothes in and it does it all. Would be nice if it also measured out the detergent on it’s own.

    Reply
  15. Norma says

    January 9, 2014 at 8:57 pm

    More space saving appliances and more effective storage for the kitchen!

    Reply
  16. onefrugalgirl says

    January 9, 2014 at 10:32 pm

    Tweet: https://twitter.com/OneFrugalGirl/status/421467871009468416

    Reply
  17. onefrugalgirl says

    January 9, 2014 at 10:32 pm

    I’d love a house with fewer walls so we could spend more time in open spaces.

    Reply
  18. grace says

    February 10, 2014 at 7:46 am

    Hi how can I book this restaurant before arriving in kyoto ? Thanks

    Reply
  19. Jennifer Che says

    February 16, 2014 at 9:44 pm

    Hi Grace,
    I just emailed my hotel in Kyoto and asked them to book it for me.
    Jen

    Reply
  20. Wendy says

    March 27, 2014 at 11:35 pm

    Hi Jen – I just found your blog while Googling around for info about Shoraian. Ended up spending a lot of time reading your Japan posts! Great photos, great writing, and thanks so much for sharing all this info! 🙂 I can’t wait to eat in Japan!

    Reply
  21. Jennifer Che says

    April 4, 2014 at 12:37 am

    Thanks! You’ll have so much fun! 🙂

    Reply
  22. Another grace says

    June 26, 2014 at 6:14 am

    Hi Jen, I loved this post! I happened upon it and your blog–maybe because I used to live in Cambridge, I am a foodie and love tofu. Do you need to know Japanese to order / eat at this restaurant?

    Reply
  23. jopanactive says

    September 21, 2014 at 6:23 pm

    Hi Jen, my husband and I are choosing to go the airbnb route in Kyoto. Any suggestions on how we might book this restaurant?

    Reply
  24. Jennifer Che says

    September 21, 2014 at 11:49 pm

    If you speak Japanese you could try calling them yourself to make a reservation. Otherwise, does your credit card company have a concierge service?

    Reply
  25. jopanactive says

    September 22, 2014 at 8:24 am

    Great, thanks! We will check it out. By the way, love your blog series on Japan. It has been extremely helpful for our planning process. keep it up!

    Reply
  26. Emily says

    September 14, 2015 at 10:12 am

    Thank you for such a great post! My husband and I are going to Kyoto on our honeymoon and we just made reservations at Shoraian after reading your blog.

    Reply
    • Jennifer Che says

      September 16, 2015 at 1:15 am

      Great! I hope you have a fabulous time. I really loved it.
      Jen

      Reply
  27. Stella says

    November 7, 2015 at 10:33 pm

    Can we order 1 package menu for sharing? I really want to try the tofu. However i think it’s too much if 1 people get 1 package like that.

    Reply
    • Jennifer Che says

      November 9, 2015 at 12:02 am

      I’m not sure if you can. We didn’t want to chance it. In our case, Bryan actually had a really bad stomachache during that time. However, since we didn’t want to be rude, we ended up ordering the cheapest set for him and then we ended up eating some of his food since he couldn’t really eat. You could always ask, I guess.
      Jen

      Reply
  28. Melissa says

    June 22, 2016 at 9:56 pm

    Hello. I’d like to make a reservation at this restaurant. Do you know if they have an email address I can write to?

    Reply
    • Jennifer Che says

      June 24, 2016 at 10:30 pm

      Hi Melissa,
      Their website has a phone number to call:
      http://www.shoraian.com/reservation-contact-us/
      I emailed my hotel concierge and asked them to set it up for me.
      Jen

      Reply
  29. Fransisca says

    July 23, 2016 at 4:53 am

    Hi Jen,

    I’m wondering how hard is it to get there (as in the road). We are planning on renting kimonos on the day, so I’m wondering whether we gonna get dirt on our kimonos/sandals. Does it have an OK path, or its more like you need sneakers kinda path? Thanks.

    And when you make reservation, do you need to let them know what you gonna order as well or you can order when you arrive? Thanks.

    Reply
    • Jennifer Che says

      July 25, 2016 at 11:29 pm

      Hi Fransisca,
      The path is a dirt path and I would not recommend Kimonos/sandals. They will definitely get dirty!
      Jen

      Reply
  30. Sylvia says

    September 22, 2016 at 8:48 am

    Hi Jenny! I had a friend who recommended this restaurant to me, so your blog was perfect! thank you! we are heading to Japan in late April 17′ and I am desperate to try this restaurant. I do however, have 2 kids in tow.. a 4 yr old and a 1.5yr old. Would they be welcome at this restaurant? (as i know many places in japan don’t welcome kids) thanks:)

    From Sydney, AUSTRALIA

    Reply
    • Jennifer Che says

      September 24, 2016 at 5:15 pm

      Hi Sylvia,
      I have no idea how the restaurant would respond to having young kids. The rooms are all private, so maybe it’s OK, but it might be worth having your hotel concierge ask the restaurant. Good luck!
      Jen

      Reply
  31. Dorothy says

    November 3, 2016 at 10:08 pm

    Hi Jen,

    I’m headed to Kyoto soon so discovering your blog couldn’t have been better timed. Love your recommendation, especially how you describe it as bang for buck! I’m always on the lookout for the best deals. Thanks for being so thorough and making it easy for novices like me.

    Cheers,
    Dor

    Reply
    • Jennifer Che says

      November 4, 2016 at 11:38 pm

      You’re welcome! 🙂
      Jen

      Reply
  32. Vami says

    June 3, 2018 at 8:25 am

    Is this place vegan friendly? Will they modify their menus to make it suitable for vegans?

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Japão – Kyoto – 2o Dia | t4yt says:
    August 4, 2015 at 8:48 pm

    […] kaiseki e o meu marido não curte tanto tofu assim, então passamos. Mas através deste post da Tiny Urban Kitchen, eu morri de vontade de ir lá. Vai ficar pra próxima. De lá, pegamos um ônibus e fomos para o […]

    Reply
  2. A New Spring One Week Japan Itinerary: Tokyo to Hiroshima | ONE GREEN BICYCLE | Japan for travel and missions says:
    May 15, 2017 at 2:59 pm

    […] Syourian(有)松籟庵- great tofu restaurant, Kyoto is known for their tofu, make reservations days ahead at least Inquiries and reservations 075-861-0123 […]

    Reply
  3. Food Lover's Guide to Kyoto | Snixy Kitchen says:
    August 12, 2019 at 2:36 am

    […] is known for its tofu, so we had our hotel book us a reservation at Shoraian, an artisan tofu restaurant overlooking the banks of a river. When we got off the train in […]

    Reply

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JenChe

Hi, my name's Jen and welcome to my cooking, eating, and travel site! I am a Boston to Hong Kong transplant, born and raised in Ohio with parents from Taiwan. Feel free to head on over to the About page if you want to learn more about me, or just explore away, maybe starting with the Recipe Index or one of the travel pages! I hope you enjoy this site!
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