In the small town of Modena, about an hour’s train ride from Milan, sits Osteria Francescana. This not-so-humble "osteria" has won World’s Best Restaurant twice (in 2016 and 2018) and holds three Michelin stars.
We started our day early, catching the 8:00 AM train from Milan and arriving in Modena by 9:15 AM, giving us just enough time to walk through the quiet streets before our reservation.
Was it a detour? Or a "special trip"? In either event, we made a special point to visit Modena in order to experience this 3-Michelin star restaurant ("worthy of a special trip").
We were surprised at how humble and modest this little town was . . .
We wandered around the central market, popped in a church, and warmed up over a cup of coffee while trying to fight jetlag.
Modena is also famous for balsamic vinegar, so we had a little tasting (so interesting!) and bought some souvenirs to bring back home.
The word "Osteria" usually refers to a humble, simple eatery. Therein lies the irony with Chef Massimo Bottura's Osteria. His philosophy is more about "bringing the best of the past into the future." He does this by taking traditional Italian flavors and reimagining them through a modern, often whimsical lens.
The Opening Bites
The meal began with a series of creative snacks:
The Garden and the Sea
Pasta Reimagined
Where is this pasta e fagioli going? featured pasta shaped like beans (using three different types of dough) served in a rich, salty Parmesan broth with drops of red cabbage and olive oil.
This dish really blew our minds. You almost couldn't tell which one was a real bean and which one was pasta, until you bit into it. It looked so humble and simple, yet took so much technique to achieve.
We also had the Passatello, a traditional way to reuse stale bread. This version was seasonal, featuring corn, black truffle, radicchio, and tomato in a comforting chicken broth.
Jazz Duck: An Exploration of Sustainability
Chef Massimo spoke to us about his passion for sustainability and using every part of the animal. He showcased this concept in a multi-part course called Jazz Duck, which felt like a culinary improvisation:
Sweets
The very last bite was Surprise, Surprise!—a rum cake with cheese cream. My friend thought it was just "okay" compared to the high bar set by the rest of the meal. Still, it was a fun way to end.
And we got to talk to the chef!
It was SUCH a honor to be able to speak briefly with Chef Massimo. He is indeed very, very passionate about many things, especially social causes. Massimo and his wife, Lara Gilmore, have a foundation, Food for Soul, which is dedicated to fighting food waste by creating "Refettorios" (12 and counting!) that turn rescued food into high-quality meals for those facing social vulnerability.
He also supports Il Tortellante, a project that teaches autistic young people how to make handmade pasta.
Here's a video I made of our dining experience!
A Meal to Remember
Looking back, this was my favorite high-end meal of our trip. I loved how each dish told a story. Not only was the food exquisite, each course was part of a bigger story that reflected Chef Massimo's values and passion.
Definitely worth the visit!
Osteria Francescana Modena
Via Stella, 22 41121 Modena Italy
