Recipes

October 29, 2018 Hong Kong

ICHU Peruvian Hong Kong

It's hard to beat the sheer number and quality of top restaurants in Hong Kong. Not only does Hong Kong already have its fair share of home-grown stars, it also attracts chefs from many of the most exclusive restaurants around the world.

One recent opening comes from Peru.

Chef Virgilio Martinez, head chef behind Central in Lima, Peru, has opened his first restaurant in Asia right in Hong Kong's Central neighborhood in Queen's Road Central. This past year, Central in Peru was named the 6th restaurant in the world by World's 5 Best Restaurants. Now Chef Martinez has sent Chef Sang Jeong, a chef who worked closely with Chef Martinez at Central in Lima for three years, to oversee the restaurant in Hong Kong.

“Our intention is to replicate the atmosphere of Lima’s local cevicherias,” explains Martinez. “We want to honour Peru’s no-fuss dining culture where the atmosphere is relaxed, the dishes are shared and the recipes highlight fresh ingredients and traditional flavours.”

ICHU is named after a plant found in Altiplano that was once a material used to build bridges by the Incas. The plant is hardy and grows in extreme conditions....

October 28, 2018 Asian

Mott32 Peking Duck - One of the best in Hong Kong

I first learned about Mott32 while researching best Peking duck places in Hong Kong. Bryan is a huge fan of Peking duck (as is evidenced by our daily consumption of the dish when we were in Beijing), and I wanted to find out the best places in Hong Kong so that we could eventually visit them.

Mott32 consistently showed up in my searches. Furthermore, local Hong Kong readers of this blog also recommended it to me, time and time again.

Though it took close to a year (!), we finally found the opportunity to take a friend there about a month ago....

October 27, 2018 Hong Kong

Saravanaa Bhavan Hong Kong

Friend of a friend of a friend . . . sometimes it still works out quite well.

An Indian friend recommended (to my friend who recommended to me) Saravanaa Bhavan, a vegetarian South Indian restaurant located in Tsim Sha Tsui in Hong Kong. Upon further investigation, I found out it was the largest South Indian chain in the world, originating out of Chennai, India spawning locations as far as Australia, North America, Europe, Africa, the Middle East, and of course, Asia.

Upon entering, we noticed that all the workers seemed to be Indian, and many of the diners were Indian as well. The restaurant chain supposedly targets South Indian expats all around the world.
...

October 26, 2018 Asian

Old Bailey Hong Kong - Jiangnan Cuisine

Inside Tai Kwun, the former prison and police station remodeled into a newly opened center of the arts, is a new Jiangnan restaurant called Old Bailey Hong Kong. The newest restaurant from the JIA Group (also behind well-known great restaurants such as Duddell's, 22 Ships, Ham & Sherry), Old Bailey represents the old Jiangnan idea that instead of going out, people would go to each others' homes and enjoy meals "diligently sourced and prepared by private chefs."

Dining at Old Bailey is meant to embody those concepts. The space has been carefully designed by Basel-based architects Herzog & de Meuron together with Hong Kong partners Adonian Chan (Trilingua), Mina Park (Sook) and Nana Chan (Teakha), to evoke the warmth of a home with furniture inspired by the Ming Dynasty.

Ingredients are most certainly "diligently sourced." 80% of the restaurant's vegetables are organic and their pickles and fermented condiments are made in-house. They source from a network of artisan producers for their noodles, vinegars and beancurds. They are very aware of dietary restrictions. Menu items are marked as being vegan, vegetarian, or gluten-free, for example....

October 25, 2018 Asian

Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle Hong Kong

There are only a handful of places left in Hong Kong that still make noodles using the very traditional art of using a bamboo stick. These bamboo noodles (竹昇麵 or jook-sing noodles) are made with a dough that is painstakingly flattened with a bamboo pole. Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle in Cheung Sha Wan is one of them.

It takes many many different "rounds" of pressing to get the bamboo noodle dough thin enough. Overall, it can take up to two hours to get the dough ready just to make 100 portions. It's a slow, laborious process, which is why it's quickly fading. Definitely check out the video below which shows the bamboo pole action!...

October 24, 2018 Hong Kong

Mercedes Me Champagne Brunch Hong Kong

This past May (2018) the Mercedes Me Store moved to new more spacious location right in the heart of Central. This expanded location, designed to evoke the sense of being inside a haus (house), has two floors, including a flexible event space that can be used for various types of activities and events.

Wait, isn't this a food blog? Why are we discussing cars and houses?

Guess what? The Mercedes Me Store also houses a "cafe" that offers food all day, from breakfast through late night dinner and drinks.The food derives inspiration from both European and Asian cuisine using open fire cooking techniques. Plates are designed for sharing, and the ambiance is relaxed yet casual. Drinks from the bar on the second floor take a similar approach, basing recipes on classic Western drinks but with an added Asian "Hong Kong" flare.

Mercedes Me Champagne Brunch — *Upstairs Bar at Mercedes Me*

Maximal Concepts (the folks behind Mott32, Blue Butcher & Meat Specialists, and Limewood, just to name a few) runs the entire food and beverage program. Executive Chef Russell Doctrove and Head Chef Joaquin Elizondo oversee the culinary team.

We were invited to try the Mercedes Me champagne brunch. The champagne brunch is decidedly much more European than Asian, but it was still executed very, very well. It brought back memories of excellent brunches I've had in the U.S. (and in Hong Kong for that matter)....

October 23, 2018 Asian

Kin's Kitchen Wan Chai - 留家廚房

This is the second post in the updated #50Postsin50Days - Take 2 Challenge. Other posts in this series will be added to the bottom of the original post.

Lau Kin-wai and his son Chef Lau Chun (both food writers) wanted to revive some traditional dishes as well as inject some modern creativity into traditional Cantonese cuisine. They opened Kin's Kitchen in 2004 to create a "home away from home" where they could use their vast food knowledge and apply it. They've unearthed ancient Guangdong recipes and re-interpreted them using a modern lens. They also stay true to other traditional recipes and create them using time-honored methods.

The restaurant has been going strong since its opening and even (briefly) earning a Michelin Star in 2011. The restaurant is still recommended by the guide, though it no longer holds a star.

It is one of my favorite places to bring out of town friends and guests. Not only is it walking distance from our home the ambiance is comfortable and relaxed and most importantly, the food never disappoints.

Chinese Broccoli with Crab, Tofu, and Shrimp Sauce

...

October 22, 2018 Hong Kong

Cheung Chau Island - Day Trip in Hong Kong

Sometimes the crazy intense energy of the city of Hong Kong can get overwhelming. At times like that, it's actually quite refreshing to "get away from it all", to travel back in time a bit to see a bit of an older Hong Kong.

Cheung Chau island is one of several fishing village island surrounding Hong Kong. I love Cheung Chau island because cars are not allowed on the island. The island is home to 20,000 people (!) who get around on bicycles or motorized scooters. Fishing is the main industry, and the seafood is fantastic. The pace of life is much slower there. The views are beautiful, and there's still lots to see....

October 21, 2018 Hong Kong

50 Posts in 50 Days - Take 2! Exploring Hong Kong in 2018

Time flies!

Back in January of 2018, after my first 100 days in Hong Kong, I took a challenge upon myself to write 50 blog posts in 50 days. It was modeled after similar challenges I had done in the past (31 posts in 31 days in May of 2014; posting every weekday for the month in 2015). In both cases, the commitment to post caused me to write many posts I never would have gotten around to writing.

Writing those 50 posts back in January was a lot of work and took a lot of discipline! What helped a lot was that I wasn't working a full time day job yet, nor had I started studying Mandarin Chinese intensively (that happened in April, when blog writing activity slowed down for a couple months).

After accomplishing the 50 days of straight posting in Hong Kong in mid-March, this blog took a "break" from Hong Kong and traveled to other parts of the world, such as Tokyo and Hakone (Japan), Sonoma (California), Yunnan, Shanghai, Shenzhen, and Xiamen (both in China).

Well, now my backlog is HUGE and in much great need of another boost. So, I've decided to do ANOTHER 50 posts in 50 days, starting tomorrow! 😬😱

This time, I'm working a full-time job, still trying to study Mandarin Chinese, and taking conversational Cantonese lessons. Heh, I have my hands full, but I'm committed to doing this. I know that if I commit to it, it will get done.

I may play around with different formats of writing up posts for restaurants, so don't be surprised if things look a bit different sometimes. Heh, if I'm really inspired, I may even write up a recipe or two. I've resolved to start cooking more again, so we'll see where that goes. The richness of the produce that is available in the farmers markets around here is too tempting . . .

Anyway, enjoy the ride! There will be lots of new posts about cool day trips within Hong Kong as well as all the various restaurants I've tried in Hong Kong in the past six months!

Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car - Lantau Island Hong Kong

DONE! COMPLETE LIST OF ALL 50 POSTS
Cheung Chau Island (Hong Kong day trip)
Kin's Kitchen (Cantonese)
Mercedes Me Brunch (European)
Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle (Cantonese)
Old Bailey (Jiangnan, China cuisine)
Saravanaa Bhavan (Indian)
Mott32 (Peking duck)
ICHU (Peruvian)
Tsukiji Yamataka Seafood Market (Sushi)
Mercato Hong Kong (Italian)
Tsukado Nojo (Japanese beauty hot pot)
Santorini Hong Kong (Greek)
Day Trip to Tai O Fishing Village (egg waffle, HK seafood)
Lantau Island and the Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car (Hong Kong day trip)
Brass Spoon (Vietnamese)
Galician Beef at La Ramba (Spanish)
Chifa Dumpling House (Chinese Peruvian)
Yardbird (yakitori) (Japanese grill)
Okonomiyaki Dohtonburi
The Chairman Four Person Set Menu
Northern Yuan Dumpling
Zhejiang Heen (Jiangnan, China)
Crabtain (crab congee)
Fishteria (Western style seafood)
Chachawan (Northern Thai / Issan)
Ning Po Restaurant (Shanghai area)
IM Teppanyaki (Japanese grill)
Che's Cantonese Restaurant (Cantonese)
Frites Belgian on Tap (Belgian mussels and fries)
Madame Ching (modern Chinese)
The Flying Elk (Scandinavian)
Putien (Fujian Chinese)
Xiangshu (Sichuan, Hunan Chinese)
Xihe Yayuan (Peking duck, Chinese)
Town by Bryan Nagao (Japanese, French, Spanish)
Ovo Cafe (Vegetarian)
Kyoku (Teppanyaki)
Santé Wine Bar (Spanish/French)
Arcane (European)
8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana (Italian)
Sushi Nakamoto (Edomae Sushi)
Shiwei (Knife Shaved Noodles)
Wai Kee Bowrington Road (Cooked Food Centre)
Epure (French)
China Tang
Sohofama (modern Chinese)
Motorino (Neapolitan pizza)
The Yuan 原汁原味 (Cantonese)
TeppanRoom Grant Hyatt (teppanyaki)

September 25, 2018 Asian

Crony Tokyo - 1 Michelin Star (クローニー)

Welcome to Crony.

Crony was the memorable food highlight of our four day trip to Japan this past summer. To be honest, I hadn't expected to have such incredible food this trip (see previous post to see why). However, just as chance would have it, the folks at Crony reached out to me about a month before my Japan trip. Would I like to try Crony sometime? The timing worked out perfectly, so we arranged a celebratory dinner at Crony in honor of my friend's birthday in early July.

Crony is a high-end French restaurant that applies influences from Scandinavia and North America to Japanese ingredients. Crony (クローニー) translates to a "forever friend with whom you enjoy tea". The three friends who founded Crony wanted the restaurant to embody this concept . . . a place enjoy a cup of tea with your best friend and hang out for hours, regardless of whether you're talking or not.

The restaurant opened less than two years ago, yet has already gained a coveted Michelin star.
...

September 16, 2018 Asian

Summer Japan Trip Report: Hakone, Akihabara, and Only in Japan experiences

I took a different type of trip to Japan this summer.

Up until this point, Bryan and I focused our Japan trips almost exclusively around food. We would make reservations at hard-to-book places in advance and then schedule the rest of our activities around these food "anchors."

This past July, we celebrated one of our closest friend's big milestone birthdays (you'll never guess by the photos which milestone it is . . . he just looks so young). We decided to celebrate by meeting in Tokyo for a four day trip. Because my friend's not that into food, we decided instead to explore other aspects of Japan that he would enjoy.

This turned out to mean spending a few days exploring the quirkier side of Japan as well as a day trip to Hakone, a beautiful, mountainous area known for its hot springs and views of Mt. Fuji....

September 5, 2018 Asian

Tokyo Shiba Tofuya Ukai - Tofu Kaiseki at the foot of Tokyo Tower

This is the fourth post in the extended Japan Series 2018. Other posts in this series include Totoro, Fall Foliage, and Tofu Kaiseki , Potsura Potsura - Japanese modern izakaya, and Sushi Ya with Takao Ishiyama plus new Sushi Ishiyama

At the foot of Tokyo tower lies an unlikely oasis tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Nestled inside a stunning Japanese garden complete with a tiny stream, bridge, and perfectly manicured trees, Tokyo Shiba Tofuya Ukai is a Japanese kaiseki restaurant that specializes in tofu, one of my favorite foods in the world. The tofu is homemade using specially chosen high quality soy beans and spring water.

Entering this oasis feels like a trip back in time. You are whisked away into the Edo period, experiencing what Tokyo was like 200 years ago. The buildings reflect the era, and the servers all wear traditional dress.

The restaurant is located inside of a 200 year old sake brewery (transplanted here from Yonezawa, Yamagata Prefecture) within a samurai-era merchant's residence. The building is huge, with 55 rooms, and seats over 500 people. Most rooms are private tatami rooms, although there is at least one larger room with several tables, useful for small parties or solo diners like me who don't need a whole private room.

The focus on high quality and impeccable service is characteristic of the Ukai group, who run three other well-known restaurants in Tokyo, including the fantastic Ukai-Tei Teppanyaki in Omotesando (where we had some of the best beef we've ever had)....

August 25, 2018 Asian

Sushi Ya すし家 with Takao Ishiyama plus new Sushi Ishiyama 鮨いしやま

This is the third post in the extended Japan Series 2018. Other posts in this series include Totoro, Fall Foliage, and Tofu Kaiseki and Potsura Potsura - Japanese modern izakaya.

This post describes a meal I had at Sushi Ya Chef with Takao Ishiyama back in November of 2017. Little did I know at that the time the he would be leaving Sushi Ya very soon to open up his own place, Sushi Ishiyama 鮨いしやま, really soon!

Chef Ishiyama left Sushi-Ya in April 2018. Another alumni from Sushi Kanesaka (honten), Chef Hashimoto, has taken over Sushi Ya as executive chef. Chef Ishiyama opened his own place in Ginza on July 25, 2018.

I have not seen too many reports of it thus far (at least in English!), but I am personally quite curious what it is like, and will definitely plan on trying to visit my next trip to Japan! If you're curious, you can read through the initial reviews and look at photographs on tabelog by Japanese people who have visited. It definitely looks quite similar to the food at Sushi Ya, with some minor differences.

So, I write this post sort of as a memoir instead of as information for meals to come. Although Takao Ishiyama will most certainly incorporate many elements from what he was doing at Sushi Ya, he may try to establish his own signature stamp onto his own restaurant.

This dinner was delicious, but it was way too much food for this person who is usually happy eating about 10-12 pieces of sushi. The dinner omakase had a whopping twenty-four courses, and some of those courses were not small (see, for example, upper right corner which is half a crab).

In any event, I think the size of lunch omakase suits me better, even though sometimes I think they save the good stuff for dinner....

August 21, 2018 Asian

Potsura Potsura Tokyo - Bib Gourmande Izakaya ぽつらぽつら

This is the second post in the extended Japan Series 2018. Other posts in this series include Totoro, Fall Foliage, and Tofu Kaiseki.

If you're looking for something that's casual yet a bit different from the traditional izakaya, noodle, or sushi joint in Japan, consider Potsura Potsura (ぽつらぽつら), a modern izakaya that focuses on fresh ingredients from the sea and the farm.

The restaurant sources its vegetables daily from its partner farm Matzuzawa Farms in Azamino, Kanagawa. The restaurant also emphasizes "openness". Chefs prepare food in an open kitchen that patrons lucky enough to score a counter seat (like us!) can observe and enjoy. Head chef and owner Yoneyama Yu truly has a passion for showcasing local ingredients.

The restaurant has received a lot of recognition, bib gourmand by the Michelin Guide and top 100 restaurants by Tokyo Calendar. They offer a nice selection of Japanese wines and sake as well.

It seemed like the perfect place for me: one of my favorite cuisines (Japanese); a strong focus on fresh vegetables and seafood; recognition for excellent cooking at a good value; and the ability to try lots of small dishes (izakaya format).

I made the reservation through my hotel a couple weeks before the trip, just in case.

...

August 16, 2018 Asian

New Japan Series Part 1: Totoro, Fall Foliage, Tofu Kaiseki

We begin a new series on Japan! In fact, this series will be divided into two parts, mostly because I visited Japan TWICE since moving to Hong Kong. Ha ha, Japan is quite close now, only a 4-5 hour flight away, so I've taken the opportunity to visit as often as I can (since I do love visiting Japan so much).

My first visit to Tokyo was in November 2017. I had only been living in Hong Kong for about two months by that point in time. However, it was the first time ever that I would be missing the beautiful fall foliage for which Boston is famous.

I vowed I would see foliage somewhere, even if I couldn't fly back to the US. I was thrilled to find out that Tokyo's fall foliage season is later than Boston's, and would peak right around Thanksgiving holiday!

When a friend told me she needed to go to Tokyo over Thanksgiving for work, I jumped at the opportunity to hop along for the ride....

August 13, 2018 California

Madrona Manor Sonoma

This is the seventh and final post in our series on Sonoma California! Other posts in this series include Harvest Moon Sonoma, La Salette Portuguese Cuisine, The Donum Estate, The Sunflower Caffe, El Molino Central, and Saddles Steak House.

Behind every exquisite dining experience is the genius creativity and dedicated hard work of an executive chef and his or her team. In the case of the Restaurant at Madrona Manor, much credit is due to executive Chef Jesse Mallgren, who has been at the helm of this restaurant since 1999 (!).

Before heading up Madrona Manor, Bay area native Chef Mallgren trained under the area's powerhouses such as Jeremiah Tower and Gary Danko. His training is decidedly French, but like most chefs in wine country, is very influenced by the local produce (including the restaurant's garden), and more recently, by his trip to Japan.

Consistency is important, and Madrona Manor has consistently held onto its one Michelin star rating for the past ten years straight.

We enjoyed a lovely dinner there one our last evening in Sonoma. It was an excellent dinner, with many highlights which I'll share in detail below. We decided to get the Tasting Menu, which requires participation of the entire table. $98 USD per person, with an additional $55 for optional wine pairing. For several courses there was a choice between two options. We tried to pick the two different options so we could sample more. ...

August 9, 2018 California

Saddles Steak House Sonoma

This is the sixth post in our series on Sonoma California! Other posts in this series include Harvest Moon Sonoma, La Salette Portuguese Cuisine, The Donum Estate, The Sunflower Caffe, and El Molino Central.

What's a good place to hold a business dinner?

If you're looking for top quality steak in Sonoma, most people will recommend Saddles Steak House, a steak and seafood restaurant located inside MacArthur Place, a hotel and spa. We were in Sonoma for Bryan's work, and he ended up having TWO business dinners here (and I came along too!). It was a good opportunity to try different things on the menu over a period of two dinners....

August 7, 2018 California

El Molino Central Sonoma

This is the fifth post in our series on Sonoma California! Other posts in this series include Harvest Moon Sonoma, La Salette Portuguese Cuisine, The Donum Estate, and The Sunflower Caffe.

Sonoma may not be the first place you'd consider when seeking out Mexican food. However, for those of us who had been living in Hong Kong for close to a year, going to Sonoma meant we were going to California, which has LOTS of better Mexican food than Hong Kong does (as far as I can tell!).

We were confident we would find some good Mexican food.

After inquiring with locals (most of whom were Mexican), we headed to Boyes Hot Springs, the next town over from Sonoma, which is known for good local Mexican food due to its largely Latino population. We finally settled upon trying El Molino, a restaurant hailed by the SF Chronicle in 2017 as being the "best Mexican restaurant in the Bay area."

Bold claims indeed. We were definitely curious....

August 5, 2018 California

The Sunflower Caffe Sonoma

organic brioche bun — *Sunflower Caffe Sonoma*

This is the fourth post in our series on Sonoma California! Other posts in this series include Harvest Moon Sonoma, La Salette Portuguese Cuisine, and The Donum Estate.

I fell in love with the Sunflower Caffe the moment I walked into it. I can't quite put my finger on why. Perhaps it was the cheerful sunflowers displayed all over the restaurant. Perhaps it was the cafe's emphasis on healthy, fresh, organic ingredients.

I have a suspicion that it was their beautiful backyard garden sitting area that really drew me to the place. It was so quaint, so warm, so inviting. I wanted to just sit there forever.

In fact, I came here twice during my short one-week visit to Sonoma because I liked it so much.
...

August 3, 2018 California

The Donum Estate Sonoma Winery

Donun Estates Sonoma — *The Donum Estate Sonoma*

This is the third post in our series on Sonoma California! Other posts in this series include Harvest Moon Sonoma and La Salette Portuguese Cuisine.

I've been going to Napa and Sonoma pretty regularly for years now. After many visits, the experiences start to blur together. I can't remember at which wineries I tried which wines, and even the visits to the various caves and tasting rooms begin to blur together.

That is, unless, I experience something so unique that there's really nothing quite like it.

*Sanna by Jaume Plensa - driving up to the entrance of the Donum Estate Sonoma*

For the weary wine tasting room traveler, Donum Estate is the perfect antidote. The Donum Estate, a winery focused on making California pinot noirs, is unlike any winery I've ever visited. What makes it unique is that the owner of the winery is also an art collector, and he houses many of these famous pieces right on the property.

The resulting visit is extremely special. Not only do you get to taste some fabulous wines and learn about Donum's specific winemaking practices, you also get to visit essentially a huge outdoor modern art exhibit interspersed amongst the vineyards. It's breathtaking and so special....

August 2, 2018 California

La Salette Sonoma - Modern Portuguese Cuisine

This is the second post in our series on Sonoma California! Other posts in this series include Harvest Moon Sonoma

It's always interesting to see how a chef takes local ingredients and applies them to a cuisine that is not local to the area. It's how food changes over history, and it's fascinating to study.

Some cultures, primarily those from regions with rich, abundant produce, are heavily dependent upon local ingredients. The ingredients largely define the cuisine. It's different when fresh food is less available. Then locals must depend a lot more on heavy spices and flavors to define the cuisine.

California is arguable the most bountiful region in the US. Therefore, cuisines that depend on fresh produce could thrive here, or also be changed a lot if the ingredients are different.

La Salette, a Portuguese restaurant located right in the center of Sonoma's historic Plaza, tries to balance this mix by using Portuguese seasonings in combination with California's bountiful produce.
...

July 31, 2018 American

Harvest Moon Sonoma

Welcome to the new series on Sonoma!

In my opinion, spring is one of the best seasons to visit California's gorgeous wine country. It's the only time in the whole year when the hills are vibrantly green from all of the rain over the winter. The yellow mustard flowers are also out, providing pockets of golden hue in many places.

I had the opportunity to follow Bryan on one of his business trips to Sonoma this past spring. We spent a week in Sonoma visiting many of our old favorite haunts as well as checking out new places. This series will focus on all the places we visited during this trip!

After getting off of a twelve-hour flight from Hong Kong, we picked up a rental car and drove about two hours north to arrive in Sonoma.

Our first stop? Dinner at Harvest Moon....

July 29, 2018 China

Day Trip from Xiamen to Hui'An County in Quanzhou China

This is the fourth and final post that's part of a larger series about my trip to Xiamen, China. Other posts in this series include A Weekend Trip to Xiamen China, Xiamen Street Food - From Oyster Pancakes to Worm Jellies! and Visiting the Che Family Home and a Home-cooked Feast

It's tough trying to travel to a popular vacation spot in a country as big and populous as China during one of their national holidays. Basically, the whole country goes on vacation at the same time, which means the entire country is trying to cram into the best vacation spots all at once. Xiamen is well-known for its warm weather, great beaches, and good street food. As a result, the city was mobbed during our visit.

It's times like this that I want to take the off-the-beaten-path and pursue the road less traveled. After a couple days in Xiamen city proper (including a day visiting Bryan's old family home in China), we took a three-hour bus ride to Hui'An, a county about 30km outside the city center of Quanzhou, Fujian in Southern China.

Hui'An "maidens" are famous for their unique dress and culture. Although they are not a minority group per se, their colorful costumes and unique head covering are reminiscent of some of China's minority tribes. The women wear thin, short jackets that don't use enough cloth to completely cover the belly ("thrifty jackets") yet they wear these huge billowy pants that seem to "waste cloth."...

July 23, 2018 China

Visiting the Che Family's Home in Xiamen + an Authentic Home Cooked Feast!

This is the third post that's part of a larger series about my trip to Xiamen, China. Other posts in this series include A Weekend Trip to Xiamen China and Xiamen Street Food - From Oyster Pancakes to Worm Jellies!

There is something special about the authenticity of an old, untouched village that preserves an older way of life that is quickly disappearing. This uniqueness is magnified when that village also holds a deep, personal connection to family roots and history.

This sort of village came upon us unexpectedly during an unplanned trip to Xiamen, a coastal island city in Southern China....

July 14, 2018 Asian

Xiamen Street Food - From Oyster Pancakes to Worm Jellies!

This is the second post that's part of a larger series about my trip to Xiamen, China. Other posts in this series include A Weekend Trip to Xiamen China

Hello Xiamen STREET FOOD!

Xiamen is known most for its fresh seafood, abundant tropical fruits, and lively street food scene. The warm climate, clean beaches, and lush gardens draw vacationers from all over China. Hot weather during the day means outdoor night markets and street food stalls don't come alive until around sundown.

There are many places where you can get street food in Xiamen. The most famous one is Zhongshan Road, which is huge, crowded, and has tons of different eateries. However, there are many others as well, such as the smaller and cuter "Cat Street" or Ding 'ao zai Street, Longtou Road on Gulangyu Island, or Zeng Cuo An Village, a former fishing village turned trendy artsy neighborhood with a vibrant nightlife.

There are all sorts of crazy street food, from barbecued meat on skewers, black stinky tofu, oyster pancakes, and even worm jelly (!) to sweet cold bean soups, tropical fruits, and the locally famous shā chá noodles. Xiamen definitely reminds me of Taiwan in some ways, which is not a surprise, considering that the two regions are just across the Taiwan strait from each other and they both speak the Minnan dialect.

We tried many different types of street food during our trip. Here's a look at some of the most interesting ones!...

June 29, 2018 China

A Weekend Trip to Xiamen China

It's funny, but Bryan and I had not intended to visit Xiamen, a Chinese coastal city known for its beautiful gardens, good seafood, and beaches. We vaguely knew Bryan's dad's side of the family had come from there, but we didn't give it much thought. In fact, the only reason we ended up coming was that while planning a trip to Taiwan (which is right across the straight from Xiamen), our friend suggested that we stop by Xiamen as well.

Che Family Visit — *Us in front of Bryan's old family home in Xiamen.*

It turned out to be an amazingly enriching trip. Yes, we enjoyed the beautiful tree-lined streets, delicious seafood, and sunny beaches. But the biggest surprise was finding out that Bryan's granduncle from the US happened to be in Xiamen on the exact same days we were there. He invited us to visit Bryan's ancestor home, an old traditional house in a preserved village that still looks pretty much the same as when his grandfather bought it 80+ years ago (!).

We met his relatives (some of whom still live in that house!), and we enjoyed the best Chinese home cooking we'd ever had in mainland China.

Here's a brief look at some of the places we visited in Xiamen. I'll follow up with a couple posts focusing more on the local foods of the region as well as our visit to Bryan's family home....

June 24, 2018 Cuisine

Blue Butcher & Meat Specialist Hong Kong

I won't lie.

It was the promise of tasting possibly the best beef in the world that drew us to this restaurant.

We had heard that Blue Butcher & Meat Specialist, a restaurant from the Maximal Concepts Group, had Galician beef, the coveted beef from older cows in Galicia, Spain praised for its deep and intense flavor. The folks at Blue Butcher had found Rubia Gallega, a type of Galician beef, in Spain at the highly regarded Asador Extebarri (1 Michelin Star; No. 6 on S. Pellegrino 50Best) after spending months "scouring the globe for the best beef" they could find.

Rubia Gallega beef comes from cows who are between 12 and 18 years old and spend their lives grazing salt pastures in a stress-free environment. There are one of only a handful of restaurants in Asia who offer this special meat, and Blue Butcher & Meat Specialist is one of them....

June 6, 2018 Hong Kong

The Pawn Wan Chai Hong Kong - brunch

The Pawn Wan Chai

Right in the middle of bustling Wan Chai sits a three-story heritage building built in 1888 that once housed the Woo Cheong pawnshop. In recent years, the historic building was converted into a traditional British restaurant known simply as The Pawn. The Pawn, with its impressive architecture and colonial design, drew visitors from all over. It was definitely a historic destination, even if it wasn't necessarily a culinary one. In 2014, The Pawn abruptly closed for an extensive remodel and "new concept" and "new chef."

At the end of 2014, the modernized Pawn emerged with contemporary modern decor and a whole new menu under the direction of British multi-Michelin-starred chef Tom Aikens. Chef Aikens previously trained at Michelin-starred restaurants Tante Claire (3 stars) and Pied à Terre (2 stars). His dream for the newly revamped The Pawn was to offer a mix of French-inspired elevated food and a more refined version of British classics. In Chef Aikens' words, a "balance between high-end and also good honest British cooking".

The Pawn aims to offer a mix of traditional and modern cuisine. The first floor is a 'Botanicals' bar which offers really edgy and creative atisanal hand-crafted cocktails. The first floor also offers small bar bites and a simple brunch and lunch menu. The second floor is the 'Kitchen', which offers a larger menu suitable for brunch, lunch, or dinner. There's a lovely open kitchen and even a balcony of coveted tables overlooking Johnston Street (we weren't able to get them the day we went).

The brunch is famous at The Pawn, and rightly so. The food is excellent, and it's a decent considering that free flowing drinks are included and kids up to age 12 eat free (one paying adult per free kid). The non-alcohol free-flowing brunch (which still includes some pretty fancy fruit juices) is 498 HKD per person. Add 100 HKD (598 HKD total) to add free-flowing alcohol (Moet et Chandon rosé imperial, bloody Mary, house red and white wines).

All of us (except for Bryan's mom, who doesn't drink), opted for the free-flowing alcohol version since we figured even if we just drank one or two glasses of something it would be worth it. Plus, it's lovely to start brunch with a glass of sparkling rosé....

May 25, 2018 Asian

Tung Po Dai Pai Dong Hong Kong 東寶小館

Tung Po Dai Pai Dong North Point Hong Kong — Tung Po Dai Pai Dong (Seafood Restaurant) 東寶小館

In Hong Kong, you can really experience food at all different levels - everything from the hole-in-the-wall which specializes in just one dish to the extravagantly decorated Michelin-starred restaurant located on the umpteenth floor of some luxury hotel boasting stunning harbour views.

One way of really experiencing dining like an old school Hong Konger is to dine at a dai pai dong (大排檔). Literally meaning "big license", it refers to a specific type of restaurant that has a bigger license than a typical street vendor. These special licenses were originally issued after World War II to family members of those who had been killed or disabled in the war.

In 1956, the government stopped issuing new licenses to open air street stalls due to complaints about these outdoor restaurants causing traffic and noise issues. More recently, the government started building indoor "cooked food centres" to move these outdoor restaurants to more sanitary indoor locations.

The atmosphere inside these cooked food centres still feels decidedly authentic. It's loud, crowded, and efficient. Conversations are lively, food is fresh and delicious, and diners often sit on plastic chair while sharing large, round tables with strangers.

One of the most popular and admittedly "touristy" places to enjoy the dai pai dong experience is at Tung Po in North Point. Tung Po specializes in seafood and is located on the second floor of the Java Road Wet Market in North Point. The restaurant is famous because its outgoing owner Robby Cheung livens up the atmosphere of the restaurant by playing fun music, acting crazy in front of the dining guests, and being all around fun. Furthermore, Anthony Bourdain ate there during an episode of his television show, No Reservations.

So what's it like to dine there?...

May 23, 2018 Hong Kong

Shari Shari Kakigori Hong Kong

The Japanese have a way of obsessing over, tweaking, improving, and elevating things to an extraordinary level that never existed before.

Shaved ice is no exception.

I had never heard of kakigori before moving to Hong Kong. Sure, I'd had shaved ice. After all, my parents are from Taiwan, so I grew up eating the Taiwanese version all the time. We would make a big batch of "snow" with our hand-cranked ice shaving machine and top it with sweetened condensed milk (from a can!) and sweetened red adzuki beans. It was a match made in heaven, and I loved it in the summer time. I tried other types, such as American snow cones / slushies or Hawaiian "shave ice", but I always preferred the Asian version.

Then I discovered Japanese kakigori for the first time. I tried it at Shari Shari in Hong Kong. This, my friends, is truly shaved ice at a completely different level....

May 16, 2018 Asian

Sushi Saito Hong Kong - Dinner Omakase

Sushi Saito in Tokyo has long been regarded as one of the best sushi restaurant in the world. It ranks number one on Japan's popular Tabelog (user-rated) website, and it has its fair share of accolades (Three Michelin stars, 26th on World's 50 Best, etc.).

Sushi Saito is also one of the most exclusive restaurants. It is virtually impossible to get a reservation at the restaurant unless if you are an existing customer, or you are introduced by an existing customer. You can't just ask your hotel concierge in Japan to request a reservation on your behalf. Sushi Saito requires a personal referral from a prior customer, preferably a regular.

For this reason, Sushi Saito has been elevated to a cult-like, unattainable status, a bucket-list item that many sushi lovers obsess over and dream about endlessly.

Imagine the uproar and fervor that arose when news came out in late 2017 that Sushi Saito was planning to open up a second location in Hong Kong, in partnership with the Global Link Restaurant Group.

Immediately, questions began flying around.

How do you get a reservation? Do you need to also have a friend refer you?

Reservations seemed virtually impossible to obtain. Phone calls to the Four Seasons only led to referrals to an email address, which courteously responded by simply stating "Sushi Saito is not taking any new reservations for the time being." It seemed to be true that you needed a connection with someone who had gone to Sushi Saito Tokyo before, or at least had dined at one of Global Link's other restaurants, Ta Vie or Tenku Ryugin.

Indeed, we eventually got our reservation several months later through a friend who worked at Sushi Saito. ...

May 8, 2018 Chinese

Mott32 Dim Sum Hong Kong

Mott32 has been on my "to try" list for a very long time now.

I first learned about it while research best Peking duck places in Hong Kong. Bryan is a huge fan of Peking duck (as is evidenced by our daily consumption of the dish when we were in Beijing), and I wanted to find out the best places in Hong Kong so that we could eventually visit them. Mott32 consistently showed up in my searches. Furthermore, local Hong Kong readers of this blog also recommended it to me, time and time again.

Mott32 is part of Hong Kong's Maximal Concepts restaurant group, which also oversees restaurants such as Limewood, Brickhouse, and Blue - Butcher & Meat, just to name a few. The restaurant makes what it calls "contemporary Chinese", focusing mostly on Cantonese food but also injecting some Beijing and Szechuan dishes into the mix.

They emphasize the importance of ingredients, working closely with farms to source ingredients as ethically and sustainably as possible. All this, of course, comes at a price, and dining at this elegant restaurant is definitely a more upscale experience.

Although most people associate Mott32 with its Peking duck, the restaurant actually makes a lot of other really, really special dishes. You don't have to get the duck when you go. In fact, if it's just two people dining, it's a bit overwhelming to order a whole duck. You won't really have room to eat anything else. It's almost better not to get the duck if you want to sample a bigger variety of dishes.

This is exactly what Bryan and I did when we visited Mott32 on a Saturday for lunch, thanks to an invitation by Maximal Concepts. Instead of having duck, we sampled an assortment of small plates and creative steamed dim sum items. We finished with their fantastic signature Iberico charsiu pork. All in all, we were able to taste six different dishes and still leave room for a couple desserts!...

April 26, 2018 China

Yunnan China - Exploring food from the Akha Minority Group - Akha Food (Akazhai)

This post is the third in a mini-series about my trip to Yunnan Province in Southwestern China. Other posts in this series include Exploring Yunnan Province - Jing Hong in Xishuangbanna and Exploring Food from the Dai Minority Group.

The Akha are the second largest minority group in Yunnan Province after the Dai. They are a hill tribe residing in villages located up the mountain in China as well as in Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos. In recent times, many villages have moved closer to places that tourists can access.

They are farmers by trade, growing tea, rice, and many other crops. They are perhaps best-known for their colorful clothing and elaborate headpieces, which I had a chance to try on during a visit to a village in Xishuangbanna....

April 16, 2018 Asian

Yunnan China - Exploring food from the Dai Minority Group [Dai Cuisine]

This post is the second in a mini-series about my trip to Yunnan Province in Southwestern China. Other posts in this series include Exploring Yunnan Province - Jing Hong in Xishuangbanna.

Yunnan Province is a fascinating place to visit. It feels different from the rest of China due to its large population of ethnic minority groups. In fact, Yunnan Province has the most number of minority groups in all of China. There are 55 recognized minority groups in China, and 25 of them are in Yunnan Province. 38% of the the population is minority.

The Dai are the largest minority group in Xishuangbanna, the southernmost prefecture in the province. They are part of the Tai ethnic group, which also includes Thai, Laotians and the Shan people from Burma. For me, visiting this part of China felt more like I was visiting Thailand than China!

There are 1.2 million Dai in China (more in Thailand and Laos). Their traditional dress is colorful and the women often wear buns. They are most known for their water splashing festival, which happens during their new year (right now in mid April!). A huge festival overtakes the city, ending in the biggest water fight you've ever seen in public where people splash each other to no end. The splashing with water symbolizes a form of purification, and splashing others means you are wishing them good luck for the coming year.

Dai cuisine is characterized by four basic flavors: sour, sweet, bitter, and spicy. This is reminiscent of Thai, but bitter replaces sweet, and they don't really use coconut milk or fish sauce. The cuisine is fresh and vibrant, characterized by some combination of (1) fresh herbs (such as cilantro, culantro, mint, garlic, and ginger) + (2) fiery chilis and (3) something acidic (usually lime but sometimes vinegar).

Yunnan province is known to be the most bountiful region in China. Accordingly, Dai cuisine also incorporates lots of great produce as well as wild foraged mushrooms and wild greens.

Below, I've summarized some of the most famous and classic Dai dishes. Enjoy!...

April 12, 2018 Asian

Exploring Yunnan China! - Jinghong in Xishuangbanna

Elephants are a beloved symbol of Xishuangbanna, location of China's protected Asian elephants reserve. Statues of elephants can be found all over the city.

Hello Yunnan!

Back at the end of January I flew to Yunnan Province in China to visit some good friends. Yunnan is located in the southwestern region of China, bordering Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar (Burma). This warm, tropical, and mountainous region is known for having the largest minority population in China as well as the richest diversity of plants and animals. People know Yunnan Province for its bountiful produce, especially its wild mushrooms (over 800 varieties!), Pu'er tea, and wild foraged greens.

I visited Jing Hong (景洪 ), the bustling capital of Xishuangbanna (西双版纳), the southern autonomous prefecture of this region. Jing Hong is a small city by Chinese standards, with only half a million people. This city feels very different from other cities I've visited in China, largely because of strong influences from the minority groups as well as the surrounding Southeast Asian countries. In many ways, the architecture, the local dress, and the food reminded me a lot of Thailand....

March 28, 2018 China

Seasons Coconut Chicken Hot Pot 润园四季椰子鸡 - Shenzhen China

We're doing a mini-series where we are exploring a few regions in mainland China. We started with Shanghai and today are moving onto the southern city of Shenzhen!

Hello Shenzhen!

Shenzhen is less than an hour away from Hong Kong by car, and is the closest big city in the Mainland to Hong Kong. The city is best known as the center of China's rapidly expanding tech industry (home of Chinese tech giants TenCent, Huawei, and the like). However, this southern coastal city also boasts an ever-changing landscape of architecturally stunning skyscrapers as well as an intense, optimistic buzz from its ten million residents who have descended upon this city for its numerous jobs and opportunities.

What's crazy is . . . this tech giant of a city was a mere fishing village some 30+ years ago. Its population exploded after the Chinese government marked it as the first of its four Special Economic Zones in 1980. As a result, Shenzhen is comprised mostly of "immigrants" from other parts of China who moved to the city for better opportunities. Mandarin is spoken here, unlike the rest of Guangdong province where Cantonese rules.

From a food perspective, this means that Shenzhen doesn't really have much of its own local, traditional cuisine. However, Shenzhen does have some specialties that have sprung up in more recent years. One of the most famous is the coconut chicken hot pot.

The coconut chicken hot pot originated from Hainan but was made popular by the Shenzhen group of restaurants called Seasons Coconut Chicken Hot Pot or 润园四季椰子鸡 (rùn yuán sìjì yē zǐ jī). Seasons has been around since 2009 and focuses on three main Hainanese specialties: coconut chicken hot pot, clay pot rice, and a number of cold dishes.

Their restaurants are decorated with a Southeast Asian feel. Diners get their own semi-private "rooms" where they can enjoy their hot pots in a cozy and quiet space.

The restaurant originally imported all its coconuts from Hainan, but due to increased demand (there are now many other "copycat" restaurants serving basically the same concept), they started importing coconuts from Thailand.

Seasons still imports all its chicken from Hainan. The chickens are "Wenchang" free-range chickens. The restaurant also uses fresh coconut juice as the hot pot soup base (and it's sooooo good).

Once they put the chicken in the hot pot, they give you an egg timer to ensure that you don't over-cook the chicken. In short, once the timer runs out, it's time to start eating the chicken!

I was not sure what I would think of coconut chicken hot pot, but I was surprised that I really really liked it! Even Bryan, who can't stand coconut water, really enjoyed the hot pot. The coconut water adds a pleasant and fragrant sweetness to the broth, and the chicken imparts the much needed umami. The whole meal felt light, healthy, and restorative.

I liked the "ponzu"-like sauce that we could optionally used. Frankly speaking though, the coconut chicken and coconut soup was so fragrant and flavorful, I ended up just eating it on its own.

We also ordered another one of the restaurant's Hainanese specialties, claypot rice with Chinese sausage and mushrooms. Though we were so full from the coconut chicken already, it was still nice to enjoy some rice and added variety to the meal.

All in all, I had a fantastic time enjoying this unique Shenzhen specialty at Seasons. I liked it so much I even tried making my own version of coconut chicken soup at home by poaching some chicken in boxed coconut water. It wasn't nearly as good as the version at Seasons (I think their use of fresh coconut water and high quality chicken is key), but it still reminded me of the flavors I had enjoyed.

After returning to Hong Kong, I realized there are several restaurants in Hong Kong who have also adopted the same concept. I have yet to try any of them yet, but I am quite curious to see how they compare.

In short, if you are in Shenzhen, I would highly recommend trying coconut chicken hot pot at Seasons. Average cost per person is 100 yuan / $16 USD for the coconut chicken hot pot, which is quite reasonable considering how much coconut water is used! There are many locations in Shenzhen (see links below), so it should be relatively easy to find one that is close by.

I have since visited Shenzhen many times and have dined at many different places, but this meal is still one of my favorites to date.

The Details
Restaurant Name in Chinese: 润园四季椰子鸡 (rùn yuán sìjì yē zǐ jī)
Restaurant Name in English: Seasons Coconut Chicken Hot Pot
Find locations at this OpenRice link or this Dianping link
If you don't speak or read Chinese, you can show the taxi driver the address on your mobile phone and they can usually punch in into their GPS.

For more information, check out this article

March 21, 2018 China

Mr. & Mrs. Bund Shanghai

Hello Shanghai!

The Bund is Shanghai's waterfront and is probably one of the most famous and recognizable skylines in the world. Mr. & Mrs. Bund Shanghai, the Asian-inspired French restaurant located right on the Bund, is one of the most celebrated and recognized restaurants on this famous strip.

The awards are endless: Mr. & Mrs. Bund has been named numerous times in The World's 50 Best Restaurants and Asia's 50 Best Restaurants lists. Various local outlets, such as Tatler China, Ideal Shanghai Daily, That's Shanghai, and City Weekend have recognized Mr. & Mrs. Bund as one of the best restaurants in Shanghai.

The menu is huge, both literally large to hold and also full of pages and pages of items. There are many many options, and the restaurant encourages dining "family style", meaning dishes are meant to be shared. There are also several set menus (meant to be shared between two people), that highlight various aspects of the menu.

Since it was our first time, we opted for the Paul Pairet Classics Signature, a nine-course tasting of some of the signature and classic dishes from the menu (688 RMB per guest). ...

March 20, 2018 Hong Kong

50 Posts in 50 Days Postlude

Hi friends,

Sorry for the silence this past week! I think after being "on" for almost two months by having to post daily, I really needed to take a nice, long break. Can't believe it's done, but all 50 posts have been published! I feel like I have caught up a TON from my backlog, and during the course of the journey, I've learned a lot more about all the places I had visited in the past. I'm continually learning more about local Hong Kong food as well as the local restaurant scene (which is ever changing!).

I have updated Jen's Guide to the Best Places to Eat in Hong Kong for Visitors with several new updates based on these last 50 posts. Definitely check it out if you plan on visiting Hong Kong!

I have updated the Original Post with a handy list (with hyperlinks!) that lists each of the 50 restaurants as well as which neighborhood it's in, and what kind of cuisine (if it's not obvious from the name). Of course to see all Hong Kong posts, just click on the Hong Kong tab to get a photo gallery of all the restaurants in the blog.

If you managed to follow along and stay with me all the way to the end, thank you so much for your support! That's a tremendous amount of material to digest. And yet still, I have barely scratched the surface of this rich, culinary city.

After 50 straight days of Hong Kong, I thought it might be kind of nice to "travel" to other parts of the world, for a change. Up next, I'll publish a few posts on my autumn trip to Tokyo, winter trip to Boston, spring trip to Sonoma, and some of my trips to mainland China. Enjoy the whirlwind tour of the world. We'll return back to Hong Kong soon enough . . . my backlog is already starting to grow again!

Jen

March 12, 2018 Hong Kong

Sushi Shikon Hong Kong - 3 Michelin Stars

Sushi Shikon Hong Kong - November 2017 — Sushi Shikon Hong Kong

This is one of many posts that are part of the series Jen's Guide - Best Places to Eat in Hong Kong for Visitors. This is also post #50 (!!) part of my #50PostsIn50Days personal challenge to document my first 100 days in Hong Kong. Other posts in this series may be found at the bottom of the original post.

If someone were to ask me what my absolute favorite restaurant in Hong Kong is, of course I would have a hard time answering it. I might have a favorite dish at a particular restaurant, or I might really like the vibe at another place. Sure, there will be places I'm always happy to visit, but picking a favorite anything is really hard.

Having said that, I think Sushi Shikon would definitely be one of the top contenders for that place.

Sushi Shikon is the second location of Sushi Yoshitake from Tokyo. Originally also called Sushi Yoshitake, the Hong Kong location changed its name to Sushi Shikon after confusion arose from people booking at one location and showing up at another (oops!). I first heard of Sushi Yoshitake from Bryan, actually. After eating there solo a couple years ago, he couldn't stop telling me about what he declared to be "the best dish I've ever eaten in my life."

!!!

This was Sushi Yoshitake's signature dish, its steamed abalone with abalone liver sauce (more on that below . . . .)

I was lucky enough to be able to dine at Sushi Yoshitake myself about a year later, and the hype is real. It was divine. That abalone with liver sauce is something, and I discovered another love: aged uni! That stuff just blows my mind.

Imagine our utter excitement when we found out that Yoshitake had decided to up a second location in Hong Kong . . . and that we would be moving to Hong Kong too!!...

March 11, 2018 Asian

Bo Innovation Hong Kong - 3 Michelin Stars

This is one of many posts that are part of the series Jen's Guide - Best Places to Eat in Hong Kong for Visitors. This is also post #49 part of my #50PostsIn50Days personal challenge to document my first 100 days in Hong Kong. Other posts in this series may be found at the bottom of the original post.

This wasn't just any milestone birthday.

This was a milestone birthday that occurred right after we had moved internationally, relocating to the other side of the globe. We hadn't made new friends yet, and all of our old friends were really, really far away. Despite those obstacles, a whole group of Bryan's closest friends, eight in total, made a special effort to fly all the way out to Hong Kong (from Boston!) in order to celebrate this special birthday with him.

It was hard to choose a place that would be fitting. We wanted it to be special (Bryan likes his fine wining and dining) and unique as well. Some of our friends are reasonably well-traveled and have dined at their fair share of fancy French restaurants. I was looking for something different.

We ended up at Bo Innovation, a restaurant serving uniquely Hong Kong-focused "X-treme Cuisine" inspired by traditional Hong Kong classics using modern, "molecular" techniques. We thought the Hong Kong focus would make it special for our friends, and the innovative cooking would be fun for everyone....