It was our first night in Paris. Bryan had arrived just a day earlier to do some meetings in another city. I arrived - jetlagged - and was just so thankful that he had already booked some places for us.
He said “I think La Scène Thélème is right up your alley. It’s French food by a Japanese chef.” We chuckled because we were both thinking of a common foodie “snob” friend. This person is extremely particular about fine dining, and the food he seeks out the most is French food by Japanese chefs.
I can see why. Japanese chefs possess an inherent Japanese ethos and obsession with quality ingredients and artistry. Combine that with the highest caliber of French technique, and you have a combination that's hard to beat.
La Scène Thélème - French Restaurant by a Japanese Chef
You can find this combination a lot in both Tokyo and Paris. At La Scène Thélème, Japanese chef Yoshitaka Takayanagi marries his extensive training in French technique together with inspiration and flavors from Japan. He has even partnered with a local farm (YASAI farm) to grow Japanese vegetables in France. This one Michelin-starred restaurant is a good value for its price, offering 5, 6, and 7 course tastings for €98, €124, and €149, respectively.
The restaurant also is attached to a theater, thus you have a chance to listen to a concert next door and enjoy the "scene."
The Tasting Menu
We began with pea chawanmushi with wasabi and yuzu, which was fantastic. I loved how light and fresh it was, truly showcasing the natural inherent flavors of the ingredients. This first course really reminded me of a Japanese kaiseki.
Next, a single scallop dressed with chive oil, pickled pearl onions, and a flavorful light broth was also excellent.
A white fish with yuzu and rice came next, served with shiso pesto and a beurre blanc sauce. This dish really had elements of French food (hello beurre blanc sauce!), while at the same time exploring "sushi" in the form of wild greens. The flavors were very nice, though we both agreed if the rice were not as soft (“mushy”) and more al dente (like sushi rice), it would be even better.
A single "sausage" with foie gras served with parsnip chips, black garlic, and a flavorful black truffle jus came with a twig, which they warned us not to eat!
Next, cereal encrusted veal sweetbreads was served alongside a few curly ribbons of ultra white tripe, hazelnut, vegetables, and jus.
Palate Cleanser + Dessert
Shiso lime sorbet, apple ribbon, and apple juice.
Lemon pavlova with white sesame ice cream.
Finally, a selection of mignardises including these cute little test tubes!
General Thoughts
Overall, it was a lovely meal where the food was prepared with care, precision, and artistry. The service was smooth. The environment was hushed, but not stuffy. Ingredients were excellent, and the fusion of Japan and France was done tastefully. I recommend this place!
La Scene Theleme Paris
18 Rue Troyon – 75O17 Paris
Tel : +33 1 77 37 60 99
[email protected]
