This is part 4 of the series on San Sebastian, Girona, and Barcelona, Spain. Other parts of this series (as they become available) can be found at this link.
The next morning, we headed to Getaria, Spain, a beautiful, quiet fishing village less than a 20-minute drive away from San Sebastian. Getaria preserves a lot of old world Basque charm. Compared to San Sebastian, it feels slower and more relaxed. The place is home of fashion designer Balenciaga (who has a whole museum dedicated to his work here) and also boasts excellent seafood restaurants.
The seafood in Getaria, especially grilled turbot, is another must-get in this region. We were unable to secure last minute reservations at Elkano, a grilled seafood restaurant that’s been made famous by Anthony Bourdain, its Michelin star, and number 30 spot on World 50 Best.
However, our meal at nearby Kaia Kaipe (same owner as Elkano) was fantastic. Kaia Kaipe is also known for its grilled turbot, which was out of this world. We watched with fascination as the grill master deftly handled multiple fish, managing the grilling of each one over hot coals on a massive outdoor grill.
The effort was worth it. It is by far the best turbot I’ve ever had.
Other dishes, such as the simple tomato and onion salad (with olive oil), achovies, and grilled octopus were delicious.
Furthermore, the wine list was excellent and the prices were absurdly low (below market prices in the US!). We ordered a 1998 Grand Reserve Brut Veuve Cliquot as well as a bottle of Txakoli, a refreshing, light, slightly sparkling white wine made right in Getaria that is a joy to drink during the summer.
Aside from the food, the town is lovely and we enjoyed exploring it for about 2 hours before our lunch. The small bay is surrounded by verdant hills and includes a small beach.
The town is quite small and walkable. Though some parts do go up a hill, there are outdoor escalators (yes, like in Hong Kong!) and even elevators at certain key points to make it easier to travel up the hill.
We marveled at how easy and little physical exertion it took to enjoy beautiful views and take in the small town.
Girona is really a wonderful little village and I highly recommend spending a half day here. If nothing else, come for some fantastic grilled turbot and a chance to just enjoy a quieter side of Catalonia.
General Arnao Kalea, 4, 20808
Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain