I am a huge fan of Mediterranean food, even though I only had limited access to it when I was growing up. Sure, my Mom would buy tabouli salad from the market, and we occasionally tried stuffed grape leaves. However, I didn't taste my first falafel nor hummus until I visited a food truck right outside of MIT (back then, it was only $2.50 for a falafel sandwich!). My world was transformed.
Since then, Greek food is often one of the first cuisines I'll suggest when Bryan asks "what do you want to eat tonight?". This is why I was especially intrigued when I learned about Mavrommatis in Paris, an upscale 1-Michelin starred restaurant focused on Greek cuisine.
The Signature Menu is 7 Courses, designed to celebrate the "finest Hellenic cuisine" for 145€. There is also a 5 Courses "tribute to Greek terroirs" for 105€. Wine pairing is 80€ or 55€, respectively. The chef-owner of this eponymous restaurant is Cypriotic chef Andreas Mavrommatis.
Amuses Bouches
We began with a beautiful set of three single bites: cuttlefish ink choux topped with bottarga, pistacho dusted shrimp red pepper ball, and a kalamata olive feta tart.
Bread + "Soup"
Freshly baked focaccia with extra virgin olive oil from Peloponnesus.
Kataïfi is a Greek-style pastry made from shredded phyllo dough. Though often enjoyed as a dessert, here it is served with a savory pea veloute.
We had our choice of bread, including more focaccia if we wanted it!
Starters
We decided to get the wine pairing, which allowed us to taste a number of interesting Greek white wines together with the food.
Karasumi (mullet roe), sea bream carpaccio, oyster, and oyster leaf paired with a Cypriotic Greek white wine.
Asparagus, citrus sorbet, olives, olive crumble, and extra virgin olive oil paired with "Tear of the Pine" wine.
Grilled eggplant, artichoke, topped with prawns, calamari, radish, and lardo di Colonnata with dollops of basil pesto on the side.
Seafood
Turbot a la plancha, capers, rhubarb, turmeric, and herb gnocchi.
Meat Courses
Finally, a red wine! We tried a 2016 Gentilini Eclipse, a dry red wine made from the unique and rare "Mavrodaphne of Kefalonia" grape variety.
Beef with pistachio and white asparagus.
Suckling lamb, saddle roasted with halloumi, chard "Dolmades", artichokes, carrots, and dollops of olive sauce.
Dessert
Fresh strawberry with basil chantilly cream, thyme and citrus strawberry sorbet with crumble, basil and strawberry sauce.
Chocolate flourless cake with St. John Commandaria KEO, a fortified Greek wine.
A variety of petit fours.
Mavrommatis Paris France - General Thoughts
Mavrommatis celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2021 right in the midst of the pandemic. The staying power of such a restaurant, especially through Covid, is a testament to its quality. The day we went the place was packed, full of new diners and regulars alike. We saw Chef Mavrommatis come out multiple times, greeting old friends, hugging guests, and really exuding Greek hospitality.
The food is beautifully presented, and this is certainly the most upscale version of Greek food I have ever had. The restaurant maintains the authentic flavors and techniques of Greek food. At the same time, Chef Mavrommatis certainly adds a refined and elevated twist through the stunning artistry in the food presentations, thoughtful pairings with Greek wines, and the incorporation of ingredients from other cultures.
It was refreshing to have a tasting meal in Paris punctuated with a different set of flavors. I'd certainly love to come back.
Below is a REEL video that I made of our meal. Enjoy!
Mavrommatis Paris France
47 rue Censier 75005 Paris
Tel: +33(0)1 45 35 96 50
